Sure, hydroquinone is getting the most attention these days, but it's certainly not your only option for treating hyperpigmentation. If you're bothered by unwanted dark spots, look for these ingredients the next time you're shopping for skin care products.
The following ingredients work much like hydroquinone, by inhibiting the melanin-producing enzyme tyrosinase:
- Vitamin C (a.k.a. ascorbic acid) - Available in an increasing number of skin care products, vitamin C can be applied topically as a serum (La Roche-Posay Biomedic Potent-C 10.5 Concentrate, for example) or as a powder (I like Philosophy Hope and a Prayer powder). Creams such as Murad Essential C Daily Renewal Complex are good for dry skin types.
- Kojic acid and arbutin - These ingredients are ideal for pigmented types who also have sensitive skin. (You can find both in SkinCeuticals Phyto+, Philosophy's A Pigment of Your Imagination and Dr. Michelle Copeland Pigment Formula.)
- Licorice extract - Sensitive skin types in particular will also appreciate licorice extract's anti-inflammatory properties. (Try MD Formulations Vit-A-Plus Illuminating Crème for your body - it lightens, moisturizes, and protects you from further damage with SPF 15. For the face I like DDF Brightening Cleanser, which contains both licorice extract and kojic acid.)
The following ingredients work by limiting the transfer of pigment into your skin cells:
- Soy - Be sure though, that soy's estrogenic components have been removed. (The easiest way to do that is to look for Aveeno and Neutrogena products with "active soy.") Many cleansers, moisturizers, and even foundations contain soy, which can help you prevent dark spots before they start.
- Niacinamide - Like licorice extract, niacinamide is also an effective anti-inflammatory ingredient. (You'll find it in Olay Definity and Nia24 skin care products.)
Exfoliating ingredients can also help with hyperpigmentation by speeding up your skin's natural cell turnover:
- Alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids - Dry or sensitive types, however, should avoid these powerful exfoliating ingredients. MD Forte has several good hydroxy acid products including cleansers and moisturizers.
Wishing you great skin!
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Dr. Baumann is author of the best-selling book, " The Skin Type Solution." To learn more about her revolutionary skin typing system, visit her Web site, SkinTypeSolutions.com.
All of Dr. Baumann's recommended skin care products are available online, and a portion of proceeds goes to The Dermatology Foundation.
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