Save your money! Many of these products contain the same old peptides and enzymes that have been in creams for years. They are nothing new--just a new marketing slant.
There are actually two types of claims that these "stem cell" creams make: 1) that they contain stem cells and 2) that they stimulate stem cells already in the skin. I would like to explain a little about stem cells, because I do believe that in 5-10 years they will become important in the beauty industry.
What is a stem cell?
All stem cells are unspecialized cells that are capable of renewing themselves (dividing to form more cells). All stem cells, by definition, can be induced to change into a particular cell type. For example, a stem cell can be manipulated to become muscle cells or skin cells. There are different types of stem cells. Embryonic stem cells are the controversial ones that are taken from fetal tissue. Their use in research was banned by the Bush administration which led to alternative ways to research stem cells.
The other main type of stem cell is the "somatic" or "adult" stem cell. Adult stem cells are found in your skin right now; they help skin renew and heal itself when wounded. These are the types of stem cells that likely play an important role in skin's appearance.
Stem cells in skin creams
Some skin creams contain substances derived from embryonic or adult stem cells, but none that I know of contain actual human stem cells. Some creams claim to contain apple and other plant-derived stem cells; however, I have not seen any convincing proof that these stem cells survive the lag between the time they are packaged and the time they are applied to the skin. (Remember that some skin creams spend months on the shelf or in the warehouse before they are purchased.) If any of the stem cells did survive this process, it is unknown if they can penetrate into the skin or if they can release any beneficial substances. It is doubtful that any of the stem cell-containing creams currently on the market can actually deliver active stem cells into the dermal layer of the skin.
Creams that "stimulate skin stem cells"
Many creams claim to stimulate stem cell activity. Well guess what?!--this is nothing new! There's absolutely nothing groundbreaking about stimulating those stem cells. Anything that speeds up cell division is actually stimulating the stem cells to divide. This is what it means when you hear that something "speeds up the cell cycle." Retinoids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, or even a simple exfoliating scrub turns on the stem cells and entices them to divide. Getting a cut on your finger stimulates the stem cells to divide in order to heal.
The future of stem cell technology
It is certain that stem cells will become important in skin rejuvenation in the future. Fat has been found to contain a large amount of stem cells. Studies are ongoing to determine how to remove the fat during liposuction, increase the numbers of stem cells in it, and replace the fat and stem cells in wrinkles and scars. We already know that those who get fat injections in the face have younger looking skin that cannot be explained by the fat graft alone. We believe the stem cells in the fat release important growth factors that make the skin look younger.
Very interesting stem cell research is being done at the University of Miami using stem cells to repair heart tissue. However, it will be years before we can truly use stem cell technology to make skin look younger. Until then, don't believe the hype--and save your money.
Wishing you great skin!
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Dr. Baumann is author of the best-selling book, " The Skin Type Solution." To learn more about her revolutionary skin typing system, visit her Web site, SkinTypeSolutions.com.
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