Ah, winter: cozy sweaters, snow-topped trees... and for many of us, tight, dry skin! During colder months, a drop in humidity - with help from harsh indoor heating systems - lowers the amount of water in the air.
As a result, water easily evaporates off the skin. Many people adjust their moisturizers as the seasons change, but I see far fewer patients who realize that their cleansers may actually be exacerbating their dry skin.
Bottom line: If you experience redness, burning, pain, or flaking of your skin, you may be over-washing it or using a counterproductive cleanser.
The epidermis includes a layer of fats that's crucial for preventing water from evaporating off the skin. Foaming cleansers and bar soap strip those fats, though, leading to dry skin - and that dry, weakened skin is also less able to protect itself against irritants and allergens.
So, which cleansers are best for dry (or just drier-than-usual) skin this time of year? Some of my favorites:
- All but the oiliest skin types should avoid cleansers that foam vigorously. (And oily types, take note: If you're close to the middle of the oily-dry spectrum, harsh winter weather can turn you into a dry skin type; pay attention to any changes in your skin.) Dove's ProAge or Energy Glow lines include excellent moisturizing cleansers, which can help fortify skin with the fatty acids it needs. (These cleansers are great even though they foam)
- The term "cleansing oil" can be off-putting to some people, but these are actually a great option for particularly dry skin types. I love L'Occitane's Almond Apple Cleansing Oil, Shu Uemura's line of cleansing oils, and Laura Mercier's Purifying Oil cleanser.
- If you have "combination skin" - that is, skin that's oily in the T-zone and dry on the cheeks - Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser or CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser are both excellent options.
In over 10 years of practice, I have noticed that many people with acne cleanse their faces too much. Let me clear one thing up: Acne-prone skin is not "dirty," and blemishes can't be washed or scrubbed away.
In fact, cleansing too much or with harsh scrubs actually irritates the skin and worsens acne. Studies have shown that moisturizing cleansers are particularly beneficial for people with acne, particularly anyone using strong anti-acne products like Retin-A or Accutane.
Finally, if you have an impaired skin barrier, exfoliating will only damage it further. Avoid scrubs and even non-abrasive exfoliating ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids if your skin is particularly dry or irritated (and if you're a sensitive skin type, avoid scrubs year-round).
Wishing you great skin!
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Dr. Baumann is author of the best-selling book," The Skin Type Solution." To learn more about her revolutionary skin typing system, visit her Web site, SkinTypeSolutions.com.
All of Dr. Baumann's recommended skin care products are available online, and a portion of proceeds goes to The Dermatology Foundation.
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