What is Your Skin I.Q.?

Pop quiz! It's time once again to test your skin care savvy. Answer the questions below, then keep reading to find out whether you're at the head of the skin care class - or if you could use a little extra credit.

Questions:

1. You should apply glycolic acid moisturizer:
   1. before you apply a retinol-based cream or serum
   2. after you apply a retinol-based cream or serum
   3. only if you are not using a retinol-based cream or serum
      
2. True or False: You're always better off avoiding skin care products with fragrance.
   
3. Regardless of what the label says, the highest level of SPF you can get from a topical lotion is:
   1. 50
   2. 30
   3. 15
      
4. True or False: You should add hyaluronic acid to your skin care regimen any way you can, including daily hyaluronic acid supplements and topical products.

Answers:

1. C. Retinol is a highly effective ingredient, but it is unfortunately not a terribly stable one! Alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid and lactic acid) inactivate retinol, and the two should not be used together.
   
2. False. The "fragrance-free" skin care fad is over, thanks to newly developed allergen-free fragrances. Yes, fragrance allergies still occur, but they are much less common with the new generation of fragrances. If you think you have a fragrance allergy, the only way to know for sure (and to determine exactly which fragrances you're allergic to) is to undergo patch testing with a specialized dermatologist.

3. A. For years, patients have asked me about rumors that products with SPF over 15 or 30 don't actually offer more protection. That is a myth - and now the FDA is weighing in. In its latest proposal for sunscreen labeling, released in August, the F.D.A. proposed increasing the upper limit for SPF labeling to 50+ (while no tested products have demonstrated protection greater than 50, the "+" leaves room for that possibility). Products with an SPF 50 have been shown to offer greater protection than lower SPF values.

4. False. Hyaluronic acid is one of the building blocks of your dermis, and slowing its deterioration is one of the goals of wrinkle prevention. But there is no way to replenish it short of injecting a dermal filler (like Perlane or Restylane) into your dermis. Hyaluronic acid supplements are broken down in the stomach, and I don't believe that they are effective. As far as topical products are concerned, hyaluronic acid can be an effective moisturizer - but again, topical hyaluronic acid cannot penetrate your skin to reduce wrinkles. If you're using a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid, be careful. In very dry climates, this water-binding ingredient can't draw moisture from the environment, so it may actually start to pull moisture out of the deeper layers of your skin.

Wishing you great skin!

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Dr. Baumann is author of the best-selling book, " The Skin Type Solution." To learn more about her revolutionary skin typing system, visit her Web site, SkinTypeSolutions.com. 

All of Dr. Baumann's recommended skin care products are available online, and a portion of proceeds goes to The Dermatology Foundation.

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